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Hair Porosity: What Is It and Why It Matters

 


At Kurls, we’ve noticed a common pattern: many women visit our Stockholm store feeling frustrated. They’ve experimented with every product, followed every trend, and yet, their curls still feel dry, frizzy, or heavy.


If this sounds like you, the secret might be something you haven't considered: hair porosity. In Brazil, where we deeply understand textured hair, we know that if your hair’s moisture levels are out of balance, even the best products won’t perform the way they should.Understanding how your hair works is the essential first step to stop guessing and start investing in what your curls actually need.



What Is Hair Porosity?

We often explain it like this: your hair cuticle works like the scales of a fish.

  • Flexible layers: They open and close to absorb moisture and nutrients.

  • Protection: They lock them in to keep hair healthy.

Porosity is simply a measure of how easily your hair can do this. When hair becomes highly porous, the cuticles absorb products quickly but struggle to retain them. Moisture escapes just as easily as it enters.

The Three Categories of Hair Porosity

To find the right routine, you first need to identify which of these three categories your hair falls into:

Low Porosity

This happens when the cuticles are tightly closed and flat. You’ll notice that water "beads up" on your hair surface before soaking in, and it takes a long time to get your hair fully wet in the shower. 

Medium Porosity

This is the balanced state where the cuticle layer is flexible and healthy. Your hair absorbs and holds moisture easily, which is why it usually looks vibrant and responds well to most products. 

 High Porosity

The cuticles are raised or even damaged, leaving gaps in the hair shaft. Your hair acts like a sponge: it drinks up water and products instantly, but it also dries out just as fast. 

Is Hair Porosity a Permanent State?

It’s helpful to think of porosity as your hair’s natural personality:

  •  For many, it’s genetic. Some people are born with hair that naturally absorbs water slowly, while others have hair that drinks it up instantly.

  • External factors like weather, heat styling, or coloring can shift how your hair behaves over time.

The goal is not to change your hair, but to understand it and give it what it needs.

How to Determine Your Hair Porosity

To choose the right products, you first need to identify your hair's behavior. Here are 4 ways to discover your hair porosity!

  1. Observe Your Hair: Does water "bead up" on the surface? Low! Or does it soak up water instantly but dry out 15 minutes later? High!
  2. The Float Test: Drop a clean hair strand in a glass of water. If it floats, it's Low; if it sinks fast, it's High.
  3. Check Elasticity: Gently stretch a wet strand. If it snaps immediately, your hair is likely high porosity and needs structural support.

💡 Kurls Expert Tip: While these tests are great home guides, the most accurate way to choose your routine is through a professional analysis. At Kurls, we help you understand your hair's elasticity and moisture absorption to build your perfect routine.

Your Kurls Action Plan

Low Porosity (The "Shield")

What your hair needs: Light, water-based products that absorb easily.

💡 Kurls Tip: Use gentle heat to help open the cuticle.

Medium Porosity (The "Balanced")

What your hair needs: A simple routine that maintains hydration without overloading.

High Porosity (The "Sponge")

What your hair needs: Rich, nourishing products and oils to lock in moisture.

💡 Kurls Tip: Finish your routine by sealing with oils to keep curls soft.

 

A note from our founder

"When I moved from Brazil to Sweden, I noticed how dramatically the climate affected curly hair. Many women believed their hair was damaged when in reality, it was simply reacting to cold, dry air and a lack of proper moisture balance. In Brazil, understanding porosity is part of how we approach curly hair care. We don’t just choose products based on trends: we look at how the hair absorbs and retains moisture. Once you understand your porosity, everything changes. Your routine becomes intentional, and your curls finally start responding the way they should.”

— Karina, Kurls

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